Dalat – City of Eternal Spring
Đà Lạt or Dalat is a 4 hour drive in a standard bus from Mui Ne or 6 hour drive from Saigon makes for a very interesting journey over some dramatic, sweeping hairpin turns offering some great scenery for the drive up 1500metres to Da Lat. I can imagine the bike ride is exhilarating.
Dalat was created as a hilltop town in the early 20th century, by the suggestion of Vietnam’s favourite Frenchman, Alexandre Yersin (student to Louis Pasteur & established Vietnam’s Pasteur Institute).
The city is much more temperate than the lowlands of Vietnam, ranging from 15 to 25 degrees (60 to 75 F).
The main town surrounds the Xuan Huong Lake, which makes a nice walk to visit the various attractions. Make sure to take a trip on the ‘Kitschy’ Pedalos (150,000 for 1 hour).
There is a wide range of accommodation catering for all tastes. It’s not as busy in many places which is apparent when you take an impromptu stop for a coffee and snack, as often the establishments don’t have much choice on the already limited menu.
Food and Drink
We stayed at a place called White Star hotel, which was 200m to a great bakery-restaurant and hotel called Thien Hoa, offering an excellent and cheap range of homemade pastries, bread and cakes. Perfect for when you have a room only booking for breakfast for the kids and adults alike.
However for the more discerning there are a variety of nice restaurants, especially around the backpacker area. One of note is Artist alley restaurant – just be prepared to pay more.
The daily night market, which is also closed off to traffic at weekend evenings, is an excellent place to try the street food. We ate for the grand total of approx 4$ including a beer! We didn’t have a clue what a lot of things were and English is generally limited, so it was a case of pointing & hand gestures.
Dalat is the main area in Southern Vietnam for tea plantations and their own Dalat wine, which is fair (Red that is as the white was undrinkable I had).
A local speciality is Trá Atiso or Artichoke tea, which is an acquired taste. We also tried the locally made green tea, which is redolent of a mild Oolong style tea.
Crazy House or Hang Nga Villa
If you have young children, from 2-3 years onwards you must make a trip to Hang Nga villa, or as it’s known ‘the Crazy house’. A tree house built in a style similar to Gaudi, but still unfinished or continuing work. The house has ten themed bedrooms ranging from Spider room to Gourd room, which can be booked. I assume you have to be prepared to leave early before the visitors arrive to climb around the place and peer into your room.
Amelie loved this place, as fearless as children can be even wanting to climb over the path winding over the roof with its 50cm high walls (No ‘elf’n’safety in action here). Scared-of-heights Dad didn’t fancy this so we stayed on the lower levels.
I just hope it gets finished eventually as the rear upper floors have been like a building site for a few years.
Chùa Linh Phước Pagoda
8km outside Dalat is possibly one of the finest Pagoda’s we’ve been to with its intricate carvings and the walk to the top of the Pagoda and around the outside walkway for the view (being acrophobic I left that to Jacqueline!).
The Pagoda was built in 1949, with its ornate dragon shaped design made from broken pieces of glass. The Pagoda is 36m high with an 8,500 Kg bell, where many wishes are written on paper and tabbed to the last. The craftsmanship which goes into making this is amazing as are the many statues of Buddha.
A word of warning for many Pagodas in Vietnam; either come fully clothed, covering shoulders and legs for both men and women or have a sarong or large towel to cover yourself. This is the same for the Cham towers and Buddhist places of worship. No cameras are allowed within the prayer areas, which is understandable as I wouldn’t want my photo taken during any period of quiet, thoughtful, meditation.
Dalat Railway station
The Dalat railway hosts one of the oldest trains in Dalat, although it was closed during the Vietnam war, it re-opened with a 7km service on an old carriage to the village of Trai Mat, nearby where the Chua Linh Phuoc Pagoda is. It’s a nice walk along the lake and up the hill to the station, grabbing a CaPhe Sua Da or ice cream (Kem) to eat on the way back.
Other things to do
Our stay was limited whilst in Dalat, and although the respite from the lowland heat of Saigon and Mui Ne, I can’t say it was our favourite place, but it’s worth exploring Datanla waterfalls with the toboggan to the bottom and possibly further afield the Elephant falls.
Dalat cable car also takes you to Truc Lam Pagoda and Tuyen Lam Lake. This is a working Zen Buddhist monastery.
Next stop: Nha Trang, where I hope to be using some of the diving kit I’ve brought with me, as well as see some of the sights on the central south coast.